GPS battery problems (shutdown under vibration)

This discussion is for those trying to run a GPS on a motorcycle, on its internal batteries.
This is a battery bounce problem due to engine vibration, primarily on single cyclinder motorcycles, and some twins.

The battery problem usually disappears if the GPS is powered from the motorcycle's 12v electrical system, after all supply-interruptions have been eliminated. If you are using a cigarette lighter adaptor, that is perhaps the worst connection known to man (under vibration). It's better to connect directly to the source.To help the GPS run on its own batteries (on a motorcycle), please see the links below. We advise that you read all of the tips for all of the GPSs. GPS is so useful on motorcycles that it is a worthwhile problem to solve.

For Dirt bikes with NO generator you should consider carrying the GPS on your body. This is lame, but such is life. For the GPSIII and V, there is a chance that you can mount it on the bar with the TOURATECH 065-0035 for GPSIII/V, as long as you tape the batteries, and use dielectric grease on the batteries from the beginning.

If you have a generator but no battery then you can hardwire your GPS with TOURATECH 15v power converter 030-0021 which converts almost any generator output to 15vDC output, (even 6vAC). Output is enough to run a GPS but not much more. The 15v output might maintain charge on a small 12v battery but we have not verified this. Many GPSs will accept 10v-32vDC, see your owner's manual. What's most important is the voltage must be smooth. A dirtbike with a regulator/rectifier is not smooth, and we have burned out lots of GPSs testing various conditions like this. You will have some explaining to Garmin if you burn yours out. This dirt-bike issue is discussed in detail below, we advise that you read it and prepare before you hit the trail.

Also, to protect the electronics you MUST use a vibration-isolated GPS mount for motorcycle use (except for very smooth motorcycles). If your mount is not vibration isolated, you can permanently damage the GPS very quickly on a single-cylinder, likely during the first ride if it's a 2-stroke! (Big twins or Hi-RPM sportbikes can be dangerous to the GPS as well).

  • GPS12 and III+, V(Four AA Batteries)
  • eMap (Two AA Batteries)
  • eTrex (Two AA Batteries)
  • GPS60 (Two AA Batteries)
  • GPS 176 (Four AA Batteries)
  • Rino (three AA Batteries)

    • DIRT BIKES with 12v output........

    Dirt bikes with an alternator but no battery:

    You have AC output which is fine for a headlight but it will burn out your GPS.

    To supply a 12v GPS, or to supply a 12v adapter cable, you must use item 030-0021.

    For eTrex /eMap /Geko, consider using a 3V external battery pack, GCE3VC. You still need to wrap the pack in tape, and use Dielectric grease on all connections, batteries, and adviseable inside the GPS battery case as well.

    Dirt bikes with an alternator and regulator/rectifier but NO battery:

    You have 12vDC output. It is a very dirty output with spikes to 22volts. The voltage level is not a problem, but the varying voltage will cause very short life to the GPS.

    If you are running a 12v GPS, directly, you should be using item 030-0021 to supply the GPS.

    If you are running a 3Volt GPS, powering the GPS thru the 12v adapter cable, this might be OK. But the 12V to 3V reduction circuit in the plug of the G10203 Garmin power cord must be hardened for use on a motorcycle, and you must use Dielectric grease on the spring and fuse inside and between all other little parts that come out when you remove the fuse. Consider GCE3VC for eTrex/eMap/Geko.

    Dirt bikes with an alternator and regulator/rectifier and SMALL battery (such as a NiCad):

    (Dual-Sport conversions)

    You have 12vDC output........if your battery is fully charged, and your battery is performing as-new, you probably have clean 12vDC. If your battery is drained for any reason (or no-good...), then at that point you have very dirty output with spikes to 22volts. The voltage level is not the problem, but the varying voltage will cause very short life to the GPS. These times are dangerous to the GPS. It would be wise to install a switch in your circuit to disconnect ALL other draws to the battery (all the lights, blinkers etc) except the GPS (but allows a full shot to charge the battery quickly). Use a toggle switch because rockers have springs in them and are not good in vibrational environments. Use blade-type fuse-holders, if there are any springs in your power-supply circuit (especially inside a cig-lighter adapter) you will have problems. Use direct-supply. Be aware that some GPSs such as eTrex/emap/Geko run on 3V, and will burn out at 12V. Read your manual. Consider GCE3VC or 065-0116 for 3V GPSs. Use Dielectric grease on all connections in your supply circuit, batteries, fuses, everything.

    There are several ways to drain this little battery, and it happens often! And if you allow deep-discharge of a NiCad battery, its likely that it will never charge again. But now it matters! It is so likely that you will encounter a dead-battery condition at some point, we recommend using item 030-0021 to supply the GPS.

    examples:

  • Going down a long slow trail section where the bike is idleing (thus no generator output), but the brakelight is on, draining the tiny battery.
  • kill the motor with the switch left on for a few minutes
  • if your bike has a tiny alternator and never can get a good charge.
  • If your battery is too old to hold a charge. (first ride of the season - lets not start the season by burning out the GPS!)
  • if your bike has turn signals, and a tiny battery. If your blinkers are on at idle you are probably cycling your voltage towards zero every time it "blinks". Not good for the GPS. If you have a tiny battery you might consider not using your blinkers at idle while the GPS is on. Also consider exchanging the 23watt bulbs for lower wattage bulb "1003LL" (8W).
    		•

    Dirt bikes with ELECTRIC start:

    You have 12vDC output. It is a reasonably clean output .

    However, if you have a kickstarter, and you are using it, this is because your battery is dead. Remember that wildly varying voltage can damage the GPS. It's in your best interest to shut off the GPS until you have enough charge in your battery to start the bike, for example. In other words, use the kickstarter and let the bike charge its battery. The power draw from the GPS is tiny, it won't affect the re-charge rate, you are turning it off to protect it.

    Use Dielectric grease on all connections, batteries, and adviseable on the internal AA batteries as well.


     

    This page has been accessedtimes since 9/06/99.
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